We weren't in Athens for long-- about 48 hours-- but it did include an opportunity to watch the full-blown changing of the guard at Syntagma Square in front of Parliament on Sunday. The guards uniforms are beautiful, with lots of interesting touches. Their kilts/skirts (yes, these are men; the Greeks claim to have invented the Scottish kilt), known as a fustanella, include 400 pleats-- one for each year their county was occupied by the Turks. The soldiers have professional steam irons in their barracks and have to iron them themselves. The requirements for this detail-- the Presidential Guards-- include being under the age of 25, over 5' 11" tall and having an outstanding an unimpeachable character. Apparently they are also tabloid fodder because of their romantic entanglements with politicians. Athens, Greece. 2 August 2009.